Easter in Portugal: 3 traditions

Easter in Portugal is widely celebrated. It’s an important time for family and friends to get together. This year, because of the confinement, it may be difficult to get together, but you can always enjoy a good “folar” at home (more about this in the article).

In the north of the country, Easter Monday is a public holiday, while in Lisbon and the south it’s Good Friday. The Easter visit, the gourmet gift from godparents to their godchildren and the processions are the events that mark Easter in Portugal. Find out more about these traditions in the article.

1. The Easter visit: the “compasso

The “Compasso” is a group of people accompanied by a priest who go from door to door to announce Christ’s resurrection and bless the houses and those who live in them. During the visits, families prepare large tables of food, including almond jelly beans, cakes, port wine and an Easter envelope, which they give to the procession.

This tradition is still very much alive in rural areas, especially in northern Portugal. This custom takes place on Easter Sunday.

The compasso.

2. The gourmet gift: the “folar

As in many countries, chocolate is very popular in Portugal at Easter. Gourmandise is international, isn’t it? But at Easter in Portugal, another culinary tradition is very popular: the “folar”.

There are lots of different “folar”. The form and content of the “folar” vary according to the region of Portugal. They can be sweet, savory, round, rosette-shaped… There are 17 different kinds of folar!

It’s customary for godparents to give their godchild a “folar” at Easter. Today, the “folar” is often replaced by a gift or money. In return, godchildren offer an olive branch to their godfather and violets to their godmother. The tradition of making offerings also extends to family and loved ones. So if you’d like to show your friendship to someone close to you, consider giving them a “folar” 🙂

Here are the 3 best-known folars:

• Folar da Páscoa also known as Folar de ovos

This is the best known. It’s round with a boiled egg in the center. This folar is eaten at Easter time. The egg in the folar symbolizes the beginning/birth of a new period. This symbolism synchronizes with the end of fasting for Christians and the liberation of the Jewish people from Egypt for Jews, but it’s also the beginning of spring when nature buds again after a long winter. Click on this link for the Folar da Páscoa recipe.

Folar da Páscoa.

Folar da Páscoa cut.

• Folar de Chaves or Folar de Valpaços:

There are also salted folars, mostly found in the north, particularly in the trás-os-montes region, and more specifically in the towns of Chaves and Valpaços. This folar is stuffed with one or more meats: pork, veal, presunto, sausage, chicken… Click on this link for the Folar de Chaves recipe.

Folar de Chaves.

Folar de Chaves cut.

• Folar do Algarve also called Folar de Olhão or Folar de folhas:

Folar d’Algarve has several names: Folar do Algarve – Folar de Olhão – Folar de folhas, and is typical of the town ofOlhão. It is sweet. It is made from flour, salt, eggs, water and sugar. It has a flaky texture and is coated with honey, brown sugar and cinnamon. This is undoubtedly the most delicious folar! Click here for the recipe for Folar do Algarve.

Folar de Olhão.

Folar de Olhão cut.

3. The processions

This year, 2020, is special because of the Covid-19 pandemic that is sweeping the world. The usual processions will therefore not be taking place, but in normal times many Easter processions and celebrations are held throughout Portugal. Óbidos, Braga and the Algarve are the cities and regions with the biggest celebrations.

In Braga, the city is decorated with numerous ornaments and altars called “Passos”. These are decorated with flowers and carried through the streets. There are two major processions on Holy Thursday: the Ecce Homo and the Enterro, during which you can see the “farricocos”, men marching barefoot, heads covered with purple or black tunics and often carrying torches.

Farricocos in Braga.

In Óbidos , central Portugal, the last moments of Christ’s life on the Stations of the Cross are depicted within the ramparts of the citadel.

Procession at Óbidos Castle.

In Loulé, in the Algarve, the Mother of GodFestival (Festas da Mãe Soberana) attracts many visitors.

Festas da Mãe Soberana

In conclusion

Portugal’s festive season is a time for celebration and tradition. Easter is no exception. To discover other major festivals celebrated in Portugal, I invite you to read the article Popular festivals in Portugal: 8 must-sees.

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