Halloween in Portugal: what are the traditions?

Trick or treat? Contrary to popular belief, Halloween is not an American tradition. It was created in Europe over 2,000 years ago by the Celtic people. But then? Halloween in Portugal: what are the traditions?

In Portugal, although Halloween(or dia das bruxas: witches’ day) is not a strong tradition, it has nevertheless gained a following over the years. So, at this time of year, you’re sure to see Halloween costumes and decorations in Portuguese stores.

But then, it’s not Halloween on October 31 that’s most strongly celebrated in Portugal at this time of year! What is most celebrated is November 1, All Saints’ Day. On this day, many traditions are followed by the Portuguese. Here are just a few of them.

1. Collecting and decorating graves in cemeteries

November 1st is “Dia de Todos os Santos”(All Saints’ Day in Portugal), when many Portuguese families visit cemeteries, washing and decorating the graves of their deceased loved ones with flowers. Candles can also be seen placed on the headstones and kept lit during the night before the Day of the Dead(in Portuguese “Dia dos Fiéis Defuntos” or “Dia de Finados“), celebrated on November 2.

2. Ask for the “Pão por Deus

The “Pão por Deus” (Bread for God) is undoubtedly the most important Portuguese tradition at this time of year.Portuguese childrengo from door to door asking for this famous “Pão por Deus”. Although this tradition has some similarities with Halloween, the children only go on the morning of November 1(All Saints’ Day) and don’t use masks or costumes.

It’s not bread in the literal sense that’s given to the children when they ask for the “Pão por Deus”. In exchange, the children are given cookies, dried fruit, apples, pomegranates, walnuts, chestnuts and today candy too!

A cloth bag to collect the “Pão por Deus”.

In some parts of Portugal, the term “Pão por Deus” is used instead of “Bolinho”, “Santoro”, “Fiéis de Deus” or “Caspiadas”.

In central Portugal, “Bolinho”, “Santoro” and “Broas Dos Santos” are more widely spoken, and children are given cakes made of flour, spices, honey, raisins and nuts.

Broas dos santos.

In the Azores, children ask for “Caspiadas”, a corn and meat loaf that looks like human brains

Caspiadas.

3. Dia de Todos os Santos” family lunch

At midday on All Saints’ Day, Portuguese families gather around a table filled with food. For all family events, the Portuguese don’t mess around with food quantities. All Saints’ Day is no exception, and the quantities are impressive! On this “Dia de Todos os Santos” table, you’ll find a number of delicacies typical of this period, including :

• dried figs coated in powdered sugar,
• walnuts
• roasted chestnuts,
• veal with raisins,
• almonds with honey.

These are just some of the traditional All Saints’ Day delicacies in Portugal.

4. Coco: Portugal’s Halloween bogeyman

In several regions of central and northern Portugal(Coimbra, Beira Alta and Minho), pumpkins are carved and illuminated. They represent “Coco” or “Coca”.

The name “Coco” comes from “cocoruto”(the top of the skull in Portuguese). Legend has it that “Coco” is a kind of bogeyman who watches from the rooftops whether children are obedient or not. He devours disobedient and rude children.

Coco or Coca.

5. Halloween parties in Portugal

Although this year with the covid-19 the parties are cancelled. There are usually several different events organized for Halloween in Portugal. Two cities in the north of the country in particular host two big parties for the occasion:

>Vilar de Perdizes (Montalegre) – This festival attracts over 40,000 people every year. It includes numerous parades and fire shows. Village houses and stores are decorated with illuminated pumpkins, witches’ brooms, black cloth and cobwebs. The village priest prepares “queimada”, a liqueur made from brandy, sugar, apple, lemon and cinnamon, capable of warding off evil spirits and witches. The men of the village go to the hilltops to shout to frighten away spirits, witches and demons.

Festival in Vilar de Perdizes

> Festa da Cabra e do Canhoto(Bragança) – this festival in the village of Cidões recreates a Halloween ritual inspired by ancient Celtic festivals. Large bonfires are lit and various rituals performed.

Goat festival in Bragança.

In conclusion

Although Halloween is celebrated in Portugal, it’s All Saints’ Day that’s particularly important, with the strong traditions you’ve read about in this article. Will you be there too? Will you be asking for your “pão por deus” this year?